Driving in the Philippines . . .

Urban roads throb with the rhythms of daily life. Pedestrians on sidewalks bob and weave at their own paces while rag tag children dart in and out of traffic. Vendors stroll between rows of cars hawking water, cigarettes, snacks, and newspapers. The more creative sell woven straw hats, fishing poles and bolos—traditional Filipino fighting knives. Older residents (God, I hate the phrase “senior citizens”) watch the drama from chairs, curbs, and park benches.
Vehicles of every size and shape compete for space in the streets. Horns blare as trucks and busses bull their way past jeepneys disgorging passengers. Motorized tricycles bob and weave in tune with the pedestrians and motorcycles buzz past it all.
Rural roads have their own charms. Four lane roads turn into two lane tracks without warning, police checkpoints block traffic at irregular intervals, “slow” and “school” signs are placed in lanes, paved surfaces give way to rutted dirt tracks with surprising frequency, and local drivers use the outside lanes for long term parking.
None of these obstacles are insurmountable and they all add to the adventure of driving in the Philippines. Unpredictability is the greatest problem for western drivers and the cues on which we rely are meaningless here. Lane markers are commonly ignored as are traffic lights, stop signs, and no parking signs. Traffic enforcers (usually the brothers-in-law of local mayors, I think) are a mixed blessing. They create a semblance of order but also compound the problems. During peak hours, they routinely stop traffic in one direction so oncoming traffic can use all lanes. Unfortunately, municipalities seldom coordinate their efforts and it is common to see four lanes of traffic running headlong into four lanes coming the other direction. At least, the traffic enforcers are smart enough to stay clear of the resulting snarls and drivers usually sort things out themselves.
Driving schools are ubiquitous here, but my Filipina wife says most drivers are self-taught. If so, this is a fine example of home schooling run amuck!
With all this confusion, I’ve discovered a few rules of thumb that will get you through most situations.
• Never expect to get where you are going on time. Locals live on “Filipino time” and I think driving is the primary reason. In recent weeks, an 18-mile drive from our home to Manila on local roads required one and a half hours, a slightly longer trip to the airport on the Southern Luzon Expressway (SLEx) consumed two hours, and a drive along the northern Luzon coast averaged 11 miles per hour. These are run of the mill times and you can double or triple them when municipalities close roads for festivals and parades.
• Right of way is a very loosely defined concept here. It appears that trucks and busses can do whatever they want, jeepneys and motorized tricycles have second priority, motorcycles cutting through traffic are sacrosanct, and pedestrians are entitled to wander through and across lanes at will. And, it’s always your fault if you hit anything—after all, westerners have deep pockets and everyone is delighted to share.
• If you are ever confused about traffic flow, hit the horn and your brakes simultaneously. It doesn’t seem to help much, but that’s what the locals do.
• Always remember to tip the vagrant who “helps” you park your car and cleans your windshield. Some are officially sanctioned and others merely stake out a few parking spots for themselves. The tips are small—usually under 20 pesos, about 40 cents—but the parker will literally put his life on the line for you. He’ll watch your car while you shop, keep other cars from blocking you in, and even stumble into traffic to create an opening when you leave.
• Always double check before obeying a traffic enforcer’s directions. Other drivers, especially motorcyclists, regularly ignore them and it’s your fault if following directions leads to a collision.
• Avoid traffic enforcers for a half hour or so before mealtimes. Every one of my expat friends has been ticketed at least once for questionable “infractions.” The stops are usually just before lunch or dinner and the enforcer regularly volunteers to reduce the “fine” for an immediate cash payment of 200 pesos—just enough to buy a good meal at a local restaurant.
Ahhh, the adventure of driving in the Philippines. I love my adopted country and driving continues to be a learning experience.